The Willey Travel Guide:   Maritime Provinces (Part 3) - Halifax and Nova Scotia's South Shore

Halifax:  According to the Doers and Dreamers Guide, Halifax has been a significant port city ever since its founding in 1749.  The closest I had ever come to Halifax in the past was changing planes at the airport.  We were looking forward to visiting Atlantic Canada's largest city and its revitalized waterfront.

Coming from the north we took the direct route into Halifax via Dartmouth and the Macdonald Bridge (small toll).  To get to the waterfront we followed Barrington Street once across the bridge and then the signs for the waterfront (via Hollis Street and Lower Water Street).  We parked in a lot on the waterfront, near the Maritime Museum.

Our first order of business was to visit the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic.  The Museum's Titanic exhibit has become quite popular due to the recent release of the movie of the same name.   I found the exhibit to be well done and worth the visit.  There is also a major exhibit on the explosion in 1917, when the French munitions ship Mont Blanc caught fire after a collision in Bedford Basin.  We were both amazed by the extent of damage caused by the explosion.  Christopher was impressed with HMCS Sackville (a corvette) which was berthed outside the museum and which provided some insight into life on the high seas.

The Halifax Buskers (Street Performers) Festival was underway at various sites on the people friendly waterfront.   We watched some of the performances while eating some wonderful fish and chips.   I found it funny that the performance we saw was the same trampoline act that I had seen the week earlier at the Ottawa Buskers Festival and also a few days later at the Casino de Hull Fireworks Competition.

After lunch we made the 8 block trek up Sackville Street to Citadel Hill.  The Citadel is part of the Halifax Defences and is a nicely preserved example of fortifications.   There are audio-visual and static displays of the history of the region which I found interesting.  Unfortunately, we did not see any live activities such as drill displays, cannon firing or examples of daily life at that time.  The brochures indicate that these activities do occur in the summer months.  We must haved visited at an awkward time.  Without these, we found that the site is not much more than buildings.  On the way down, we passed by the old Town Clock which sits majestically on the edge of Citadel Hill (see photo at top of page) with a good view of the harbour.

Unfortunately, our time was limited so we got back into our car and headed down route 333 to Peggy's Cove.  The drive was pretty and I believe that the best view was as you approached Shad Bay.

Peggy's Cove is picture postcard material.   Waves crashing forcefully into the rock outcroppings.  A smattering of colourful homes dotting the treeless, windswept terrain.  The fishing fleet tied up at the dock and a lonely lighthouse overseeing everything.  Be sure to visit the lighthouse (see photo at right) which is now the Peggy's Cove post office.

It is hard to imagine that one month later, this beautiful spot would be forever linked to the tragedy of the crash of Swissair flight 111.

Our route took us around St. Margaret's Bay, past Hubbards (which is the locale for the CBC television series Black Harbour) and down the peninsula to Blandford. 

Our "home" for the night was The Century House B&B (902-228-2041).  It is located on Mahone Bay just outside Blandford.  The house was immaculate and tastefully decorated with pottery and art made by the owners, Mieke and David.  They were in the process of adding a pottery gallery when we visited.  It should be in operation by now and I would suggest you check it out if you are in the area.  The house has a second floor reading nook with a view of the Bay, which is magnificent.  In the distance we could hear the cry of a loon.

We settled in and then made our way along the coast highway to Chester where we stopped for supper.  The Rope Loft restaurant is located directly on the wharf with a terrace overlooking the harbour.   We watched the boats on the water as we ate our seafood dinners.

The next morning I took full advantage of the scenery of Mahone Bay and went jogging along the shore road to the government wharf in Blandford and back.  Breakfast was a scrumptious fruit filled extravaganza -- blueberry and peach pancakes that were to "die for", served with yogourt and fresh fruit.

On the route to Lunenburg we passed through Mahone Bay.  As you approach the town from the north, you are suddenly presented with the impressive sight of three waterfront churches side by side.  After stopping to take the photo at left, we continued down Route 3 for another 10 minutes until we reached our morning's destination, Lunenburg.

Continued on next page.